Penguin.ca

Mother's/Grandmother's Day Brunch

The Loving Spoonfuls Cookbook by Carol Sevitt, is a collection of cultural histories, life stories and recipes from 37 of Canada's most remarkable grandmothers. Penguin Online spoke to Carol Sevitt about character, culture and food and planned a brunch menu sure to please the whole family!

Q&A

Q: Is there a particular message from a grandmother in The Loving Spoonfuls Cookbook about family history and cultural traditions that stands out in your mind?

A: Although it's difficult for me to single out one grandmother, because each one had her own personal story that was unique and poignant, I will touch on two special women:

Jean Lumb, the daughter of a Chinese immigrant farm labourer received the Order of Canada for her impressive volunteer work on behalf of the Chinese community, yet her top priority was always her family. Everyone was welcome at her table and she was the consummate mother, grandmother. Jean demonstrated that lack of education needn't stand in the way of greatness and that achievement and accolades are secondary to a loving family life.

Andrea Vincent grew up in Hungary in a villa with two maids, a cook, a chauffeur and a governess. But she had a reversal of fortune in 1956 when she and her family fled the country after the Russians quelled the Hungarian revolution. They left with only the clothes on their backs and made their way to Canada. Andrea demonstrated that material possessions are meaningless if you don't have freedom and that having your spouse and child nearby makes you rich in ways that are immeasurable.

Q: What hints can you recommend to cooks of all ages?

A: 1. Be bold and creative—take a chance by trying new recipes, but make them your own by adding your own variations.
2. Don't knock something until you have tried it. Some recipes sound unusual on paper but turn out to be tantalizing and delicious.
3. Put your heart and soul into your cooking. Our grandmas all swear that their cooking is the best because their special ingredient is love.

Q: Can you recommend the perfect Mother's Day or Grandmother's Day brunch using recipes from The Loving Spoonfuls Cookbook?

A: Sure!
Meggyleves (Hungarian Sour Cherry Soup)
Arrotolata con Ricotto (pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese)
Invigiolata (bread with sun-dried tomatoes)
Salata Horiatiki (Greek salad)
Aunt Rebecca's Babka
A brunch to remember! The recipes are below.

This classic Hungarian seasonal soup has been popular since the seventeenth century. This recipe is from the kitchen of Najymama Andrea Vincent.

Ingredients:

2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (125 mL) water
4 cups (1 L) water
1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt (approx.)
2 cups (500 mL) pitted sour cherries with juice
1/2 cup (125 mL) granulated sugar
1 cup (250 mL) sour cream

1. Stir flour into 1/2 cup (125 mL) water until lumps are dissolved.
2. In a large saucepan, bring remaining water and salt to a boil. Add flour mixture and return to a boil, whisking steadily.
3. Pour in juice of cherries; return to a boil. Add cherries; bring to a boil again for just 1 or 2 mintues (cherries must not soften). Stir in sugar. Taste and add salt to taste to offset sweetness.
4. Let cool. Fold in sour cream. Refrigerate until chilled, about 4 hours. Serve cold.
5. Variation: Prepare this soup using other seasonal fruits such as peaches or apricots.
6. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Mama Fiora Di Giannantonio's pastas are renowned.

Ingredients:

Arrotolata Pasta:
4 eggs
2 cups (500 mL) water
1 tsp (5 mL) salt
2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour (approx.)
About 6 cups (1.5 L) tomato based pasta sauce
Ricotta Filling:
2 eggs
pinch salt
pinch pepper
2 lb dry ricotta (4 tubs)
1 cup (250 mL) grated Parmesan cheese (approx.)
1 cup (250 mL) chopped cooked spinach
2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp (5 mL) nutmeg

1. In a bowl, beat together eggs, water, and salt; add enough of the flour to make a batter that falls in ribbons from spoon. Lightly grease flat griddle pan or wide skillet. Spread one-sixth of the batter onto pan to make an 8-inch (20 cm) square about 1/4-inch (5 mm) thick; cook over medium heat, turning once, for about 2 minutes, or until set. Do not let brown. Transfer to plate. Repeat to make 5 more pasta sheets.
2. In a large bowl, beat together eggs, salt, and pepper. With hands, mix in ricotta, Parmesan, spinach, parsley and nutmeg. Lay one pasta sheet on work surface; spread evenly with one-sixth of ricotta mixture. Top with second pasta sheet and one-sixth of ricotta mixture. Fold bottom third over centre third. Fold once more to create pasta roll. Repeat with remaining pasta and ricotta mixture to make 2 more rolls.
3. Spread 1 1/2 cups (325 mL) tomato sauce in bottom of large (17 x 12 x 3 inch/43 x 32 x 7 cm) foil baking pan. Lay pasta rolls side by side lengthwise in pan. Cover with remaining sauce. Sprinkle with a little more Parmesan cheese. Cover with foil and bake in 350° F (180° C) oven for 30 minutes or until hot in centre of rolls.
4. Makes enough to serve the whole neighbourhood (about 16 to 20).

This Italian Sicilian bread gets rave reviews from all who taste it. From the kitchen of Nona Cathy Palumbo

Ingredients:

5 cups (2.5 L) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) water
2 tbsp (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp (5 mL) salt
1 tbsp (15 mL) active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1/2 cup (125 mL) pitted black olives, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup (250 mL) freshly grated Romano cheese
1 cup (250 mL) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 tsp (1 mL) dried oregano
pinch pepper

1. In a very large bowl, combine flour, water, oil, salt, and yeast, kneading in the bowl until ingredients are well blended. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 3 hours, or until tripled in bulk.
2. Punch down dough. Roll out dough into 24 x 14 (60 x 35 cm) inch rectangle, letting dough rest periodically while rolling to allow the elastic to relax. Spread oil over surface. Sprinkle with sun-dried tomatoes, onion, olives, garlic, Romano and Parmesan cheeses, oregano, and pepper. Roll up dough into a 24-inch rope and pinch ends to seal. Place on a greased, rimmed baking sheet. Coil rope into a spiral leaving at least a 1-inch gap between the turns. Cover with a towel and let rise in warm, draft-free place for 1 1/2 hours or until doubled in bulk.
3. Bake in 350° F (180° C) oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until golden and bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Let cool on a pan for 10 minutes; transfer to rack to cool. Serve warm or cool. Slice into pieces 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) thick.
4. Makes 16 to 20 servings.

Yaya Sophie Tzoitis was born in Athens and moved to Canada after WWII, bringing this traditional easy-to-make Greek dish with her.

Ingredients:

Tomato wedges
Cucumber, sliced
Sweet green peppers, chopped
Sweet onion, sliced (red or white)
Olives
Crumbled feta cheese
Extra-virgin olive oil
Vinegar
Dried oregano

1. In a bowl, toss together the tomato wedges, chopped sweet green peppers, sliced sweet onion, and sliced cucumbers. Pour extra-virgin olive oil and vinegar on top to taste.
2. Add olives and crumbled feta cheese. Sprinkle with dried oregano to taste. Toss to serve.

Bubbie Ruthy Gale's Aunt Rebecca started making this recipe sixty-five years ago in Noranda, Quebec. The Gales eat babka to break their day of fasting on Yom Kippur (the Jewish Day of Atonement).

Ingredients:

2 tsp (10 mL) granulated sugar
1/2 cup (125 mL) warm water
2 pkgs active dry yeast (each 2 1/4 tsp / 12 mL)
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) light (5%) sour cream
6 tbsp (90 mL) granulated sugar
1/4 tsp (1 mL)baking soda
2 tsp (10 mL) kosher salt
2 eggs, at room temperature
1/4 cup(50 mL) margarine or vegetable shortening
6 cups (1.5 L) all-purpose flour (sifted)
8 to 10 pecan halves (optional)
Coating:
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
3 tbsp (45 mL) ground cinnamon
1/2 cup (125 mL) vegetable oil

1. Dissolve sugar in warm water; sprinkle yeast over top. Let stand for 10 minutes, or until frothy; stir.
2. Warm sour cream in a microwave-safe bowl in microwave. Pour into mixer. Add sugar, baking soda, and salt; mix well using dough hook. Mix in yeast mixture, then eggs and margarine. Gradually mix in about 5 cups (1.25 L) of the flour, adding more flour as necessary to make a sticky dough. Mix for 3 minutes longer. (If making by hand, in a large bowl, make a well in centre of 5 cups (1.25 L) of the flour; place other ingredients in well and mix together, incorporating flour and adding more as necessary to make sticky dough.) Turn out dough onto lightly floured surface. Knead for 7 to 10 minutes, or until smooth and shiny, incorporating enough flour to prevent sticking.
3. Transfer to a greased bowl, turning dough to grease all over. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place for about 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk. (Dough has risen enough when indentations remain in top after poking with 2 fingers.) Punch down dough and turn over. Cover and let rise again until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
4. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead a few times to form a ball. Pat out dough into a rectangle about 14 x 10 inches (35 x 25 cm). Cut into about 40 pieces (each about 1 1/2 inches/4 cm square).
5. Grease 10-inch bundt pan very well. Place a pecan (if using) in each ridge.
6. Coating: In a small bowl, combine sugar and cinnamon. Dip each piece of dough in oil to coat lightly on all sides, then roll in cinnamon sugar. Place pieces in bottom of pan just touching each other to make a ring. Repeat to make second ring on top but closer to tube side, then make third ring on top closer to outside of pan. Fill pan only half full, as dough will rise more. (Use any remaining dough to make mini babkas or rolls.) Cover and let rise in warm, draft-free place until doubled (should reach top of pan), about 30 minutes.
7. Bake in 350° F (180° C) oven for 30 to 45 minutes or until babka pulls away from sides of pan and bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Let cool in pan for 20 minutes. Invert onto rack. If you can wait, let cool for another 20 minutes!
8. Makes 12 servings.